Magical Island: Montserrat, West Indies

Travel piece December 2002

 

 

Magical Island: Montserrat, West Indies

December 2002

 

 

Visiting Montserrat isn’t just any vacation: it’s an authentic experience of Caribbean life on an island which has been harassed by nature. In 1989 Hurricane Hugo caused massive damage and the islanders were without electricity and communications for months.  They rebuilt and repaired and a period of economic recovery and prosperity followed until 1995 when the Soufriere Volcano re-erupted.

 

For seven years the volcano has steadily grown andesite lava domes: their partial collapse in pyroclastic flows of rock, ash and hot gas, and mud flows during wet weather have led to the abandonment of the Southern two-thirds of the island, which has become an exclusion zone. Former busy capital Plymouth is buried in ash, and more than half the population has relocated to the North of Montserrat, nearby islands or the UK.

 

I was there for two weeks in December, coinciding with the 40th annual Christmas Festival and the Calypso competition. Music is everywhere in the Caribbean, and Montserrat is no exception.

The island must have the most talented people ever congregating in three square miles, for everywhere I went I was introduced to musicians, writers, poets and performers eager to discuss their work and mine. As a composer I was taking notes (no pun) the whole time.

 

Mein hosts were Shirley and Lou Spycalla of Erindell Villa; we became friends a couple of years ago when someone said I should read Shirley’s “Lions of Paradise and other childrens’ stories”, the modern Just-So Tales of Montserrat…I did and very entertaining they are.

The Spycallas greeted my arrival with lobster salad and breadfruit followed with Lou’s rum punch, regaled by a mix of opera and calypso music (which go surprisingly well together)

 

Food was excellent: I ate goatwater and fishwater stews ; roti: a rectangular pastry parcel of curried meat or veg; and at Mariet’s Gourmet Gardens great home-made veggie burger ( could the secret ingredient be sauerkraut?) with banana ketchup.

At Danny and Margaret’s we grilled wahoo fish around their pool: they have been granted permission to trade temporarily from home, as their beach bar is now in the exclusion zone.

 

One memorable moonlit evening we went for shrimp dinner at Moose’s and danced under the stars with the Masqueraders to fife and drum. Irish music, accent and traditions, such as St Patrick’s Day holiday celebrations, are intrinsic to the culture. Irish settlers were once plantation owners and slave overseers who lived lavish lives amid the suffering and exploitation. Masquerades were the slaves’ way of parodying the entertainments: the costumes are strips of cloth, lace, bits of mirror, a Bishop’s Miter hat and a whip.

 

The National Trust at Olveston has a model of a sugar mill, and artifacts detailing the history and geology of Montserrat, including a copy of the emancipation of slaves document. There is a gift shop selling souvenirs of the visit, mostly produced by local crafters.

 

Today the island is a British overseas territory, with an old-style colonial Governor and his entourage who administrate alongside Montserratian members of Government. The political life is very colourful and currently dominated by various interpretations of the volcanic activity.

 

The volcano is certainly active. Viewed from the new Montserrat Volcano Observatory or from Jackboy Hill, beyond Lookout, close to the ruined airport, it is particularly beautiful at night when glowing rockfalls light up the night. During my visit Prof. Steve Sparks from Bristol University gave a public lecture and there are frequent talks by visiting scientists. A helicopter tour of the exclusion zone shows the power and beauty of the volcano: bring plenty of film.

 

I returned with a glowing winter tan, superlative knowledge of volcanoes and a new-found love of brass band thanks to New Beginnings music group directed by Herman ‘Cupid’ Francis. A remarkable man: he’s the Director of Culture, teaches himself to play instruments so he can then teach the children, and he came third in the Calypso competition with a song he wrote in his spare time...

 

I met so many people like him, with boundless energy, devoted to Montserrat. Reluctantly I left an island where the people are friendly and interesting, and the sun shines most days. Waiting for a plane back to the US I got talking to some cruise ship passengers. ‘Isn’t Montserrat just an abandoned ruin now?’ one man asked. I enjoyed setting him straight.

 

 

 

 

 

Copyright Tracy Pace 2002